PDX Mountain Hiking

[bufftabby]

I've had this crazy idea for awhile that I simply must get to the top of a mountain. The closest mountains around here are the Appalachians, and the most suitable-seeming peak in this area (Mt. Mitchell), well, you can drive to the top of it. That kind of defeats my purpose, which is the journey of the ascent.

But--it looks like I'll be visiting a friend in the Portland area this summer. There are so many mountains within driving distance, there has just got to be one for me. I have zero mountain climbing skills, but have done some medium-difficulty hiking. The Devil's Lake Trail up the South Sister seems to be the most achievable, but still pretty challenging. Am I crazy? Is this something I can reasonably do?

[SmartAleq]

Assuming you're in decent physical shape, sure. Make sure your boots are well broken in, make sure you pack assuming the weather will turn to shit and you should be fine. Mt Hood is more travelled and there are guided trips up there, I hear, so that might be a good option. The Sisters are sure beautiful, though, I bet the view up there is almighty fine. My BIL is a climber, has done K2 and is starting to work his way through all the Cascades now that he lives in Washington. He says when he did Hood they decided to get tricky and go off the beaten track to make their own way up to the summit and guessed wrong--had to come back without hitting the top. Neener neener, I says to him, that's why the trail markers are THERE!

[Chacoguy]

What's the worst that could happen?

[SmartAleq]

Huh, I dunno--a freak insane storm could blow up in minutes and send huge cascades of water down the canyons while throwing lightning bolts about a million to the minute? Oh wait, that's not here, whew!

[Zeener Diode]

I just made a hike up Wind Mountain last weekend with a couple friends. It's not as grand as scaling Mt Hood, but it's an excellent daytime excursion and offers an easy (and not that crowded) path to an awesome view of the Columbia River Gorge.

We decided on Wind Mountain instead of the more (slightly) challenging Dog Mountain hike, and the ever-popular Beacon Rock hike. Dog Mountain offers more panoramic views along the way, while Beacon Rock is nothing BUT views as you ascend. Dog Mountain is kinda crowded the first mile, with everyone and their grandparents stopping at the first viewpoint before turning around. And Beacon Rock tends to get really crowded on the weekends and holidays, especially if the weather is nice.

[Jeff]

Well, I must say I'm glad I logged in for a change. Mmmm, the great outdoors.

First, I didn't know of the South Sister's existence until I read this thread. Now I must go there - what a fantastic looking hike. I've added it to my considerable list of things-to-do-far-from-home.

Second, I would characterize this as an ambitious choice for a beginner. 5000ft of elevation gain is big day out, and the reduced oxygen levels above 7000ft will make it more difficult. I don't know your level of physical fitness, but the trail looks completely non-technical, so with enough time and willpower you might make it to the top. And there's no reason you can't do some training between now and then to improve your odds.

Keep in mind that getting back safely is the number one priority; bring a light source in case you're out after dark, pack extra layers for the summit (don't underestimate the temperature difference 5000ft can make), loads of water (it looks like there's no shade for most of this hike), a friend who is a slower runner than you (in case of bear), and possibly a sherpa or two (to carry the frappucino maker).

Even a failure can have value - my failed 2009 attempt at the Half-Dome in Yosemite (an equally difficult hike) inspired me to explore the outdoors closer to home and I've never regretted it.

[bufftabby]

Dog Mountain looks pretty good, and might be more enticing to my friend. I have great endurance, and I think maybe I could do South Sister through sheer force of will--and I think she really could too; she's not so sure--but it would probably be the opposite of fun. You make a good point about the reduced oxygen levels too. I'm not really prepared for all that.

[Jeff]

There are certainly worse destinations than the Columbia River Gorge.

It may also be worthwhile to try some easy hikes near Mt Hood, it looks like there are a number of easier ones with ready access to the alpine and views of the mountain. Here's a list I found online.

[SmartAleq]

If you're curious about your ability, the Oneonta Gorge trail to Larch Mountain would likely test your skills, give you one hell of a hike and a fabulous view afterward--and best part is you can leave a car at Larch Mountain so you don't have to hike it back down if you're just beat to shit. The trail starts near Multnomah Falls, so you could get up really early, have breakfast at the lodge then make the hike. Anyone feeling spry at the top can hike right back down to the first car, anyone not feeling up to it can take car #2 back to the lodge for drinks to wait for the crazy people.

They used to sell trail maps at the Multnomah Falls gift shop too, and there are a shitload of trails and hikes in and around the gorge. You could spend a lifetime here and never repeat a hike if you didn't want to!

[Mustard Stain]

Although Chaco's post was a little extreme, I do think it would be worthwhile to get some good technical hiking miles under your belt a bit before attempting one that's going to take you to altitude. For something like that you want to be in good enough shape and have the proper emergency skills so that if something goes wrong — like anything between breaking your big toe to a freak storm — you'd have the skills to manage.

Last time I went up something substantial, I did a lot of hiking with a weighted pack until I was very confident on difficult-rated trails in the weeks before the bigger climb.

ETA: You can probably talk to park rangers to help find a trail that is appropriate to your skill level and keeps you close-ish to safety (eg/ if you had to, you'd could divert to an access road in an emergency).

I've hiked in a few areas where you have to take a test before they let you on certain trails. I didn't do those trails because I don't have the orienteering skills required.

[Boo]

It's been a long time since I've been out there, but the Portland area... Columbian Gorge/Mt. Hood is a great place to go if you love hiking and the outdoors.

I want to retire out there.

One place not yet offered up in the thread but is in the general area is Ape Cave. If I remember correctly, it is near Mt. St. Helens. They are old lava tubes carved out of the earth. You have to be in decent shape to make it from the beginning to the end, but I believe when I went through it, there was an opening about half-way through that made the hike a bit easier if you ran out of steam.

A couple of things if you go to Ape Cave:

1) it is DARK, so take at least one flashlight.
2) there are places where you have to climb over rocks, and it can feel a bit claustrophobic... Especially if you drop your flashlight and find yourself in total darkness (yes, this happened to us... One of the people holding a flashlight dropped it while crawling over a pile of rocks. You could only see a small light, sadly looking back at you if you got right on top of where it was dropped. No way to retrieve it. Thank goodness we all brought flashlights.). If you go by yourself, (I wouldn't recommend it), make sure to take extra batteries and a backup light.

3) it is cold and a bit clammy in the cave/tube so dress appropriately.

This was a very cool experience. I don't know how popular it is now, but when I went, there were not many people there at all. Only occasionally would we come up on another group, and I don't recall anyone overtaking us. So if you don't like a lot of people/kids, this is a good place to consider.

Hopefully, one of the folks that post here that actually live out there can share more about what Ape Cave is like these days.

[SmartAleq]

Ape Cave is freaky but fun--ditch the flashlight but double up on a headlight and extra batteries. You'll want both hands free to climb around.

[Jaglavak]

It was pretty packed when I drove by last spring. Some friends went through and their advice is wear gloves and expendible jeans because you have to do some scrambling. The rock is obsidian glass in some places and the edges are sharp. That said, they're no athletes and they made it to the halfway point. But it's a climb. Also you need to stop by the ranger station in Cougar, Wa and pick up a day pass.

That big valley between St Helens and Mt Adams and south of Hwy 12 is not the place to go off trail for anyone but a local. As you go further east the woods and brush get so thick and the terrain so chaotic that even experienced hikers and hunters get lost. Every couple of years someone goes in and doesn't come out. About 10 years ago there was a plane crash that was tracked nearly to the ground on radar and as far as I know they still haven't found it. If you go play over that way I would stick with the established hiking paths, bring something for navigation, your phone or an FRS radio, and enough clothes to live through the night.

[SmartAleq]

Absolutely concur with my esteemed colleague--I can attest from personal experience that you really want to be a smart Boy Scout up here. Always use up to the minute proper topo maps of the area you'll be in (go ahead and get the squares adjoining, too, they aren't expensive!) and always have a compass along with. Stick to marked trails--I know, it seems wussy but don't go haring off the trails, things get confusing up here. Layer your clothes because even in the blaze of summer sudden crazy weather can blow up and you can freeze your balls off if you get rained on. Always bring a mylar emergency blanket, some protein bars, a steel water bottle, first aid kit, a rain poncho and wool socks even if you're just planning on an easy day hike because you never know. Keep a good emergency kit in your car, too. People who come from civilized places don't really viscerally understand just how far into the boonies you can get up here in very short order. We have good search and rescue teams, but it's much better to never need them!

[Jaglavak]

Originally Posted by Jeff

...don't underestimate the temperature difference 5000ft can make...

The exact number can vary due to weather conditions, but figure 5 F / 1000 ft. So if you assume it will be 25 degrees colder than the overnight low and blowing half a gale, you'll be dressed for success.

[bufftabby]

Tomorrow's the big day! Not sure which day(s) the hiking will be, but I'll be up in the air like Jr Birdman, headed to PDX.

What else in Portland should I not miss? So far, I've got Paul Bunyan and Animals in Pools (because otters) on my list.

Originally Posted by SmartAleq

Absolutely concur with my esteemed colleague--I can attest from personal experience that you really want to be a smart Boy Scout up here...People who come from civilized places don't really viscerally understand just how far into the boonies you can get up here in very short order. We have good search and rescue teams, but it's much better to never need them!

No Boy Scouting necessary--my friend and I were Girl Scouts together for a long time. I'm no stranger to outdoorsing, just not so much with the mountains. I can definitely appreciate the cautions; I know shit can get really real, really quick. And as a Southerner, I'm not sure I've ever been accused of coming from a civilized place before!

[Solfy]

I hope your trip west is excellent, buff.

When you're home again, have you considered hiking up to LeConte Lodge? A friend of mine did it a few years back and it sounded like a beautiful way to spend a weekend. You can't drive up to the lodge - supplies are carted in and out by llama train. It's about 2hrs away from you. It looks like they're doing some trail restoration this year that might interfere, but reservations have to be made well in advance anyway (and appear to be not that easy to get!). My apologies if this area is old-hat to you, but I thought it was worth mentioning. It's on my "maybe someday" list.

[SmartAleq]

Looks like you'll be riding a cooling trend, buffly, which also means could get weather if you go into the mountains--bring socks! As for what to see, you absolutely need to see Multnomah Falls because it's beautiful and if you drive out on scenic Hwy 30 you'll also see Vista House at Crown Point (that's a Do Not Miss item) and go past simply oodles of different types of waterfalls. You can make one hell of a day trip by going in the morning up through all the falls heading east, hit the freeway for a few miles, taking the Bridge of the Gods over to the Washington side (if you're in the passenger seat, roll your window down all the way and look straight down as you go over) where a great lunch can be had at the Big River Grill in Stevenson if you're feeling peckish, or just pick up some road food at the A&J market in town. Then head out further east to check out the museum at Maryhill--it has a very eclectic bunch of stuff ranging from pre-communist Russian furniture and icons to Rodin clay studies and a couple Lichtensteins, plus white peacocks all over the place. A couple miles from Maryhill there's a WWI memorial that's a concrete copy of Stonehenge, properly aligned to the sun and everything. Cross back over to the Oregon side and take Hwy 35 over to Hwy 26 at Government Camp, check out Timberline Lodge on the way (because hey, The Shining, w00t!) then if it's warm you can stop at Trillium lake for a dip before coming back into town on 26. Depending on how many side trips you make, this can either be a fun and easy day's road trip or a very long and exercise filled day indeed. As you pass through Hood River, keep in mind that it's nectarine and peach season and patronize the local farmers at a fruit stand--you will not be disappoint.

In town, must hit Voodoo Doughnuts because it's tradition. It's a couple blocks from Stumptown Coffee, so perfect morning Portland thing to do.

How long are you here for?

[bufftabby]

Originally Posted by Solfy

I hope your trip west is excellent, buff.

When you're home again, have you considered hiking up to LeConte Lodge? A friend of mine did it a few years back and it sounded like a beautiful way to spend a weekend. You can't drive up to the lodge - supplies are carted in and out by llama train. It's about 2hrs away from you. It looks like they're doing some trail restoration this year that might interfere, but reservations have to be made well in advance anyway (and appear to be not that easy to get!). My apologies if this area is old-hat to you, but I thought it was worth mentioning. It's on my "maybe someday" list.

I haven't done anything in the Smokies area, but it's definitely on the to-do list. Lodging is pricey in general there, so locals here usually cart the whole extended family there and everybody shares a cabin, making it pretty economical. I'm really into the free lodging of which I'm about to partake. I couldn't really afford a trip like this otherwise right now.

Originally Posted by SmartAleq

Looks like you'll be riding a cooling trend, buffly, which also means could get weather if you go into the mountains--bring socks! As for what to see, you absolutely need to see Multnomah Falls because it's beautiful and if you drive out on scenic Hwy 30 you'll also see Vista House at Crown Point (that's a Do Not Miss item) and go past simply oodles of different types of waterfalls. You can make one hell of a day trip by going in the morning up through all the falls heading east, hit the freeway for a few miles, taking the Bridge of the Gods over to the Washington side (if you're in the passenger seat, roll your window down all the way and look straight down as you go over) where a great lunch can be had at the Big River Grill in Stevenson if you're feeling peckish, or just pick up some road food at the A&J market in town. Then head out further east to check out the museum at Maryhill--it has a very eclectic bunch of stuff ranging from pre-communist Russian furniture and icons to Rodin clay studies and a couple Lichtensteins, plus white peacocks all over the place. A couple miles from Maryhill there's a WWI memorial that's a concrete copy of Stonehenge, properly aligned to the sun and everything. Cross back over to the Oregon side and take Hwy 35 over to Hwy 26 at Government Camp, check out Timberline Lodge on the way (because hey, The Shining, w00t!) then if it's warm you can stop at Trillium lake for a dip before coming back into town on 26. Depending on how many side trips you make, this can either be a fun and easy day's road trip or a very long and exercise filled day indeed. As you pass through Hood River, keep in mind that it's nectarine and peach season and patronize the local farmers at a fruit stand--you will not be disappoint.

In town, must hit Voodoo Doughnuts because it's tradition. It's a couple blocks from Stumptown Coffee, so perfect morning Portland thing to do.

How long are you here for?

Oh, waterfalls and The Shining are right up my alley. I didn't realize Timberline would be so close. I'm in town four solid days, excluding both travel days. A long-time friend who moved to LA awhile back will coincidentally be in town at the same time, so that's pretty exciting too.

[SmartAleq]

Four days is a goodly block of time to check stuff out--if you find yourself bored of an evening feel free to PEEM me and perhaps we can meet up at a food cart pod or cotch a beer or something. Or if you want to rent kayaks at Deke and Bryan's I'd be more than happy to show you a good place to get a workout. No matter what, have an excellent time in our fair city--I think you're gonna dig it. Get someone to take you up to Council Crest for the view then over to Mt Tabor for the same view back the other direction. It's an interesting take on the city and Mt Tabor is super pretty to hike around anyway--it's an extinct volcano with a basketball court in a small caldera. Plus, Tabor is right at the end of the very fun hipster douche Hawthorne strip--much fun shopping to be had.

[Zeener Diode]

Yanno, Smartie, you'd make one hell of a guide. Have you considered a job change?

[SmartAleq]

I just like to pay it forward--almost twenty years ago a dear friend took me on the whirlwind tour o'Portland while I was up at an SCA event and solidified the notion that I should pick up and move up here. Now I like to do the same for others!

Apparently the world's largest and possibly craziest cuckoo clock is in the Portland airport, make sure you check it out! Carved with a chainsaw by a guy from Sisters OR. Nice work!

[bufftabby]

Originally Posted by SmartAleq

Four days is a goodly block of time to check stuff out--if you find yourself bored of an evening feel free to PEEM me and perhaps we can meet up at a food cart pod or cotch a beer or something.

I wouldn't be surprised if we catch some live music at some point or something. And I'm definitely planning to consume the hell out of some local brews. I'll shoot you a shout when that happens. Zeener, aren't you pretty local? I'd love to have you come out for such a thing too!

[SmartAleq]

What part of town are you staying in? I'm in SE, Zeener's in NoPo, we both like beer and could very likely meet up for a pint--I just hate crossing the river, that's my bugaboo. Parking's a bitch on the west side when you drive a pickup.

[Zeener Diode]

I'm as loco as they come, baby.

[SmartAleq]

Ooh, some nice hikes here.

[bufftabby]

I'M HEEEEERE! I'm staying about 20 min south of the airport. My friend is a PhD student at PSU, so we're pretty close to there. We're planning to go some drinks and music of some sort Sunday evening, so I can keep those posted who would like to be posted.

We're headed to the Couv today to stock up for our day. No telling what we might be up to there.

[Zeener Diode]

Woooo! We had a nice little meet-up Sunday night at the Horse Brass Pub! Buff, Smartie, and yours truly + a really awesome friend of B's. I had to leave early on account of a 5 am shift but I trust the wimmenz folk managed quite well in my absence.

[bufftabby]

That was such a fun night! Thanks to both zeener and smartie for their kindness, and for not secretly being axe murderers. In a town full of nice people, I managed to find two of the nicest!

[SmartAleq]

It was awesome meeting you in meatspace, missy, and your charming friend as well--I was trying like hell to find my axe but it took forever to locate the thing and then it really needed sharpening and I just wasn't up to it. I'll try to do better on the next unsuspecting visitor!

[JackieLikesVariety]

Originally Posted by bufftabby

That was such a fun night! Thanks to both zeener and smartie for their kindness, and for not secretly being axe murderers. In a town full of nice people, I managed to find two of the nicest!