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#2
29th July 2017, 06:03 PM
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very nice!
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#5
29th July 2017, 07:31 PM
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What kind of wood is it?
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#6
29th July 2017, 09:32 PM
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Right now it's a 1/8 scale model. When it grows up, it will be one of these thingies. 14 1/2 ft long x 2 1/2 ft beam x 50 lb. I wanted to test out my version of this build method. He knocks them out in six hours, I figure more like two weekends.
I'm glad I built the model, it told me what I wanted to know. There are so many variations on the basic stitch and glue method that after awhile you don't know who to believe. I figured a strongback was the way to go since I'm not working from plans. That worked slick. I plan to screw the panels to the frames and skip the stitching. And I'm going to use cheap drywall screws and take them all out when the glue is set rather than cough sheks for bronze. I used crazy glue to tack the model followed by marine grade epoxy. Basically I'm satisfied that the build method works and is probably the most results for the least work. The plywood I used is cheapo 1/10th inch three ply fir. It was the thinnest they had. The color is from the amber-colored epoxy, it wasn't stained. Unforch, 1/10" is the equivalent of using 3/4" plywood at full scale and while the side panels didn't put up too much of a fight, that deck did not want to bend. I eventually argued with it hard enough to break it a little on the port foredeck. So I filled the remaining gaps with epoxy filler mix and you're not allowed to notice. After all that, I guess I didn't get quite enough hardener in the last coat of epoxy. The damn stuff didn't want to harden up and the deck started prying itself off when I took it out of the clamps. So I slapped the clamps back on and put it in the oven at 150 for half a day. That cured the epoxy so nicely that it stuck to one of the clamps and peeled off a chunk of the deck. Soooooo, I peeled the chunk off the clamp with a razor blade and lovingly glued it back in place. Then I urethaned the whole thing to finally slay the sticky. It's probably more glue than wood at this point. But it floats alright. I'm going to start out with a kayak paddle. But the next part of the plan involves pedal power. You know I gotta.
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#7
29th July 2017, 09:48 PM
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That's actually pretty sexxay--are you going to follow the Fox plans or just strike out on your own? And does this have a similar cargo capability as a canoe? 'Cuz those things can haul a grip.
I like the O-foil propulsion, that's slick. The first one, the backy forthy one, looks like it would be a stability nightmare if you were crossing a quick bit of current--if you nosed out from a still backwater and caught the nose in the current, that side to side motion would dump you in the drink with a quickness. Would probably be okay for still water, but I'd be a little paranoid if a squall blew up.
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#9
30th July 2017, 04:26 AM
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 the pedal power stuff is way cool, as well. can't wait to see the full sized version.
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#10
30th July 2017, 05:23 AM
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I should check out that fir plywood. I've used birch and it's great but kinda spendy.
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#11
30th July 2017, 09:28 AM
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Last edited by Jaglavak; 30th July 2017 at 11:53 AM.
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#14
30th July 2017, 11:07 AM
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Well, Labyrinth Canyon isn't too arduous (assuming no killer thunderstorms, of course!) and you can't beat the scenery. And KidV took a bigger canoe than that through some pretty decent rapids on the Colorado. Be brave, you can do it!
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#15
30th July 2017, 01:30 PM
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KidV is hardly a role model for an impressionable yout such as myself.
One big bonus of the watertight lockers is they will pretty much bail out the kayak for you
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#17
31st July 2017, 02:46 AM
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If you're not using copper or bronze, rather than using 105 marine expoxy, consider using 650 G-Flex marine epoxy for the joints, and plug the screw holes with 650 mixed with 404 High-Density Adhesive Filler.
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#18
31st July 2017, 11:21 AM
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Very interesting, thanks. West System is good stuff. As it happens I already have a bucket of Epiglass HT9000* and a can of amorphous silica that I snagged on sale a couple years ago. I figured I'd be gluing stuff to other stuff all the time, but have barely put a dent in it so far. This project ought to take care of that.
I could use a source of cheap glass cloth though. It seems to be about $1/square foot pretty much everywhere. Which is totally worth it considering what you get, but hey I'm a tightwad. *That's the stuff that tried to kill me. It all started when one of the ladies at work had an electrical short on her car and it burned down to the frame right there in the parking lot. One of the lift gate struts overheated and blew, and flew 100 ft and blew out an 8 ft window in the big conference room. It bounced around inside there hard enough to chip a concrete floor through the carpet. That was a new one on me. When it was all over I happened to notice one of those fake chrome name badges laying in the bushes that was well blackened but still legible. So I took it home and potted it in epoxy as her secret santa present. You know that part in the directions that says don't pour it more than half an inch thick? I poured it into a mold about two inches thick but didn't cut back on the catalyst. It started foaming over and smoking in a minute or so. The fumes drove me out right away. When it was done I had a big pile of brown epoxy foam stuck to a sheet of cardboard. Steeeerike one. But when I sawed it off flat in the band saw it turned out to be a really cool effect. The crispy name badge had bubbles streaming up off every corner and the cooked epoxy made a swirly smoke cloud effect. After casting again to get a smooth surface it made an awesome paperweight. And I'll never do that again. Last edited by Jaglavak; 31st July 2017 at 11:42 AM.
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